Photos and the City

Tag: travel

Dreaming of St. Kilda

Early morning in Harris

It was a very. very early morning for me, but it was so worth it! I was lucky enough to go on a day trip to St. Kilda – the magical island in the Atlantic ocean I had read so much about.

This was the important phone call I had to climb a hill for the day before, the weather was fine, there was an open spot and I could join this boat trip.

St. Kilda is a group of islands about 50 miles from Harris, in 1930 the remaining 36 people living in Hirta (part of the St. Kilda archipelago) were evacuated, leaving the islands behind for the bird colonies. Today St Kilda is the only place in the UK holding two UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Today the National Trust for Scotland cares for the islands.

But let´s start with my early morning. I booked my tour with Kildacruises and we were leaving from Leverburgh at 8 am. It was around a one-hour drive from my accommodation to Leverburgh and it was such a stunning morning. The roads were empty, the light was magical and I stopped so many times to admire the views!

Leverburgh

At the harbour in Leverburgh I met some of the other travellers admiring an eagle, but I was kind of too excited getting on the boat to really give the eagle my full attention.

There are a few boats going to St Kilda, two tours from Harris and I also think one from Skye. The drive from Harris took around 3 hours and it was an adventure itself. We had the most amazing weather, the sea was calm and we were just sitting on the outside of the boat admiring Harris going by and then the wide emptiness of the Atlantic sea.

Our boat was arriving to pick us up.

The boat trip

Bye Harris for, we drove by islands, gorgeous beaches and the Harris mountains.

We were a group of 12 people and started to get to know each other during the journey to St Kilda. And we were in for a surprise, the four ladies, who were admiring the eagle before, were actually celebrating the 50th anniversary of their first time going to St. Kilda.

50 years ago their schools organized “Work Parties” and the teenagers and students were staying for a few weeks on Hirta helping to restore the cottages and other buildings.

Oh, the stories they told us!

It is still possible to work as a volunteer for a few weeks in St Kilda, these programs were just paused during Covid.

Arriving in St Kilda

After about 2 and a half hours we go our first glimpse of St Kilda.

Stac Lee to the Left and Hirta to the right.

Driving towards the beach of Hirta and the landing zone.

To my surprise there was quite a lot going on in St Kilda – in my head, it was uninhabited with just a few National Trust rangers and scientists in the summertime. But there is also a military base in St Kilda and they were building new buildings that blend in with the landscape.

Back on land, watching the weekly helicopter arrive.

TBC

11/10/2022
Another day in Stornoway

It was a rainy day on the border between Harris and Lewis, but it looked a bit drier in Stornoway, so I decided to visit this lovely town another time. I also toyed with the idea of getting some wellies.

I was lucky, as soon as I crossed some of the mountains the sun came out.

I started my walk around town in the harbour and discovered this impressive monument remembering the sinking of the Iolaire on 1 January 1919 right in the Minch before Stornoway. One of the worst maritime disasters in United Kingdom waters.

This monument was erected for the 100th anniversary of the sinking.

A friendly fisherman greeting you on the other side of the harbour, vis a vis from Lews castle.

The brewery at the edge of the world seemed to have moved…

Another ferry arrived and brought lots of happy tourists ready to explore Harris & Lewis.

And one of my favourite statues in Stornoway, the “Herring Girl”, or better said one of the “Herring Girls” statues – remembering all the women working in the fishing industry. For almost 100 years, from 1850 up to WWII, more than 3000 of the island’s women were employed in the industry as “Herring Girls”.

27/09/2022
Hello Stornoway!

Hello Stornoway, hello Lewis! I had some time to explore this lovely town before driving to my first accommodation right on the border between Lewis and Harris.

I parked near the ferry and walked along the harbour towards Lews Castle.

Stornoway is filled with a variety of independent shops, cafés and restaurants and is very lively. It also is the main town and capital in Lewis & Harris with some huge supermarkets.

Founded by the Vikings in the early 9th century around a natural harbour, the city soon became a hub for people travelling and trading with the rest of Scotland.

James IV transferred Lewis to the MacKenzies of Seaforth in 1610 to further support the trading.

In 1844, the MacKenzies sold Stornoway, and the Isle of Lewis as a whole, to Sir James Matheson (and his descendants) who built the present Lews Castle on a hill overlooking the bay of Stornoway. (Wikipedia)

Today Stornoway belongs to the people.

In 1918, Matheson sold the island to William Lever, 1st Viscount Leverhulme. Lord Leverhulme held the island for a short time. His economic plans for the island (together with various business setbacks) overstretched his finances. Faced with failure in Lewis, he gave Stornoway parish to the people of the town. The Stornoway Trust was formed and continues to administer the parish for the people. (Wikipedia)

Lews Castle today houses a museum and also offers holiday-let rooms and apartments. The view over the town from the rooms must be amazing!

On my way towards the border between Harris and Lewis, I made a stop at Crust – great Neapolitan-style pizza in the middle of Lewis. Enjoy some pizza with an amazing view!

15/09/2022