Photos and the City

Slow travel & photography

Visiting the Heart of the Neolithic Orkney, the Standing Stones at Stenness.

My last evening in Evie and the first almost sunset I saw in the last weeks, it really doesn´t get dark in the summer in Shetland or Orkney.

The next day I went back to the Ness of Brodgar, the Neolithic Heart of Orkney, but went to the other side of Loch of Harray first to enjoy the views over the landslip from there.

Visiting the Heart of the Neolithic Orkney, the Standing Stones at Stenness.

View towards the Ring of Brodgar and the Ness of Brodgar.

Visiting the Heart of the Neolithic Orkney, the Standing Stones at Stenness.

The backside of Maeshow – the large Neolithic chambered tomb that was still closed because of Covid safety measurements, but the Historic Environment Scotland offered talks about and so I learned quite a lot of the history of the tomb and Neolithic Orkney.

Stones of STenness

Visiting the Heart of the Neolithic Orkney, the Standing Stones at Stenness.

When driving back towards the Ness of Brodgar one can´t miss the Stones of Stenness Circle and Henge – another impressive circle of standing stones and also the ruins of a settlement.

The Stones of Stenness you see and marvel at today are just a part of a ring of 12 tall stones and a surrounding ditch placed here some time between 3000BC and 2500BC. This was about the same time that nearby Maeshowe was being built, but well after Skara Brae was occupied and well before another stone circle was constructed a little to the north at the Ring of Brodgar. (Undiscovered Scotland)

The site dates back to at least 3100 BC and is one of the earliest stone circles in Britain.

Visiting the Heart of the Neolithic Orkney, the Standing Stones at Stenness.

View towards the Ness of Brodgar and Ring of Brodgar

Time hasn´t treated the stones well, in the 19th century only 4 stones were still standing and a local farmer got annoyed with all the visitors and

He destroyed the nearby “Stone of Odin” and toppled a second stone that was part of the ring before he was stopped. The Stone of Odin was an especially sad loss. It had a circular hole, through which local lovers plighted their troth by holding hands. (Undiscovered Scotland)

Around 1900 this toppled stone was reerected and was another one found under the turf.

When complete, the Stones of Stenness would have been a magnificent sight. The tallest of the stones still standing is 5.7m or 19ft high. Imagine the impact of three times as many of them. (Undiscovered Scotland)

Visiting the Heart of the Neolithic Orkney, the Standing Stones at Stenness.

The views all around the circle are amazing, on clear days one sees up until the Island of Hoy.

Visiting the Heart of the Neolithic Orkney, the Standing Stones at Stenness.

View stowards Maeshow tomb.

Visiting the Heart of the Neolithic Orkney, the Standing Stones at Stenness.

The Stones of Stenness today consist of four upright stones up to 6m in height in a circle that originally held 12 stones. The focus of the interior was a large hearth. The stones were encircled by a large ditch and bank, the form of which has been lost over time by ploughing. (Historic Enviroment Scotland)

It might have never been completed though, excavations showed that the last two stones might have never been erected.

 

The Barnhouse settlement

Follow the path toward the loch behind the stone circle and you will find the remains of another Neolithic settlement – the Barnhouse settlement.

 

Visiting the Heart of the Neolithic Orkney, the Standing Stones at Stenness.

The Barnhouse settlement was inhabited between 3300 and 2600 BC and consisted of six small houses similar in style to the early circular houses at Skara Brae built around a larger and more elaborate building. A stone age village.

Visiting the Heart of the Neolithic Orkney, the Standing Stones at Stenness.

First excavated in 1984 this settlement is often overlooked and less known than its counterpart in Skaill bay.

Unlike Skara Brae, which was protected for millennia by a cocoon of sand, Barnhouse had been badly damaged by centuries of ploughing. As a result, only the reconstructed lower courses of the structures are visible today. (Ness Of Brodgar. co.uk)

It might have been the home to the stonemasons of the Ring of Stenness or it even might have been the home of people of great importance according to the size of the houses.

Visiting the Heart of the Neolithic Orkney, the Standing Stones at Stenness.

The finding of this village completely changed the view of the Ness of Brodgar.

Before its discovery, the area around the Ness of Brodgar peninsula was seen as a purely “ritual landscape” – the home of Neolithic monuments, megaliths and stone circles kept separate from “domestic” life.

The settlement at Barnhouse showed, without a shadow of a doubt, that people were dwelling among the monuments. (Ness of Brodgar.co.uk)

Visiting the Heart of the Neolithic Orkney, the Standing Stones at Stenness.

Visiting the Heart of the Neolithic Orkney, the Standing Stones at Stenness.Visiting the Heart of the Neolithic Orkney, the Standing Stones at Stenness.

The short distance between the circle of standing stones and the settlement.

 

The Watch Stones

Heading back to the roading towards the Ness of Brodgar one can´t miss the 6,5m tall standing stone in front of Brig o’ Brodgar (bridge)

Visiting the Heart of the Neolithic Orkney, the Standing Stones at Stenness.

Skaill Bay

I was heading back to Skaill beach, close to my new home for the next days and enjoyed some time watching the surfers and just relaxing.

Skaill beach and the waves of the sea

Skaill beach and the waves of the sea

 

Exploring Rousay and the Midhowe Cairn & Broch in Orkney.

The weather got wilder when I reached my second visiting spot – Midhowe Cairn and Broch, one can see the broch on the shoreline. It was just a short walk down from the small parking space to the coastline to reach a small settlement, the cairn and the broch.

Exploring Rousay and the Midhowe Cairn & Broch in Orkney.

Midhowe settlement & church

When I arrived at the coastline I turned left toward the ruins of a couple of crofts and a church, I couldn´t find much information about these ruins, but still enjoyed the walk along the coast and seeing these remains.

Exploring Rousay and the Midhowe Cairn & Broch in Orkney.

And I got company by a lovely sheep family.

Exploring Rousay and the Midhowe Cairn & Broch in Orkney.Exploring Rousay and the Midhowe Cairn & Broch in Orkney.Exploring Rousay and the Midhowe Cairn & Broch in Orkney.

Exploring Rousay and the Midhowe Cairn & Broch in Orkney.

I think the church was one of the last remains and the place where I turned around and walked towards Midhowe Cairn.

Midhowe Cairn

Exploring Rousay and the Midhowe Cairn & Broch in Orkney.

From the outside, it looks like a big hangar, which was built over the cairn to protect it. Inside one can walk around the cairn and also go above it and catch a glimpse of the inside chambers.

Midhowe is one of 15 Neolithic chambered tombs on Rousay and Midhowe cairn is the biggest one found on Rousay. First excavated in the 1930s it contained human remains, animal bones, pottery and worked flint.

The cairn is 32,5 m long and divided by slaps into 12 slaps and probably dates from around 3500 BC.

Midhowe Broch

Walking out of the hangar again I continue the short walk down to the broch right next to the cairn.

Midhowe Broch was built on a narrow promontory beside Eynhallow Sound more than 2,000 years ago. A thick stone barrier and ditch across the neck of the promontory defend it from the landward side. The remainder of the settlement is surrounded by the sea – indeed, part of it has been lost to coastal erosion. (Historic Enviroment Scotland)

Exploring Rousay and the Midhowe Cairn & Broch in Orkney.

There are the remains of around 500 brochs all over Scotland and we find the most in Shetland, Orkney and Caithness, but rarely are they as dense as along the shores of Eynhallow Sound, on the north-east coast of Orkney’s Mainland and the south-west coast of Rousay.

Exploring Rousay and the Midhowe Cairn & Broch in Orkney.

Midhowe broch is almost exactly vis à vis from Gurness broch.

Midhowe Broch was built some time in the last centuries BC. It occupies a naturally defensive site on a promontory. The name “Midhowe” means middle mound and this is just one of three brochs closely grouped together.

North Howe Broch still lies under a mound in the next field to the north-west, while South Howe Broch lies a few hundred yards to the south-east: close to the ruined farmstead of Brough, and steadily being cut away by the sea. There are the remains of another four brochs along the five miles of shoreline between South Howe Broch and Trumland Pier. (Undiscovered Scotland)

Exploring Rousay and the Midhowe Cairn & Broch in Orkney.

There are always discussions if brochs were supposed to be for defence or just a way of living, but this broch was definitely built to withstand. Due to its location and the channels in the rocks access to the broch wasn´t made easy.

Originally probably around 12m high the walls reach around 4m today. Large flagstones divide the inside into smaller rooms, and stairs within the two walls were used to reach the higher floors.

Exploring Rousay and the Midhowe Cairn & Broch in Orkney.Exploring Rousay and the Midhowe Cairn & Broch in Orkney.

Around the main building, we again find the remains of other buildings and workspaces, which were added at a later date.

Pottery and other artefacts found during excavation give evidence that these were still in use at a time when the area had trading links with the Roman Empire. (Undiscovered Scotland)

Exploring Rousay and the Midhowe Cairn & Broch in Orkney.

Exploring Rousay and the Midhowe Cairn & Broch in Orkney.

I walked back up the hill towards my car and just got inside before it really started pouring down. I still continued on the road that circles around Rousay but the rain and wind got so bad that I didn´t see a lot more. And it was definitely no weather for my planned walk and picnic.

Exploring Rousay and the Midhowe Cairn & Broch in Orkney.

Exploring Rousay and the Midhowe Cairn & Broch in Orkney.

So I decided to try my luck if there was a spot for me on an earlier ferry and just go back to Evie and have a lazy afternoon in my lovely airbnb.

Exploring Rousay and the Midhowe Cairn & Broch in Orkney.

In case you are wondering, I was lucky and I wasn´t the only one, we all kind of went to the ferry and asked if we could take it.

 

It was time for a day trip to Rousay, the little island just vis a vis from Evie and the Broch of Gurness. It is the 6th largest island of Orkney and around 200 people live in Rousay.

Travelling there is a bit scary, at least the part when you have to reverse drive onto the ferry, down a pier. Lucky for me the guys at the ferry are great at directing and we didn´t land in the sea. The ferry ride to Rousay is short, but better keep your car windows closed, there might be some waves…

Little daytrip to Rousay an Orkanian island filled with neolithic finds.

Rousay has been nicknamed ‘The Egypt of the North’ due to its richness in archaeological sites – a total of 166, including Midhowe Broch and Cairn, a popular destinations for visitors to the island. (Around Rousay.co.uk)

Little daytrip to Rousay an Orkanian island filled with neolithic finds.

Unfortunately, many places to visit were closed, but I still walked up a hill to see the Knowe of Yurso from the outside.

Knowe of Yarso

Knowe of Yarso is one of at least 15 chambered tombs on the small island of Rousay. These were used for communal burial and their distribution probably relates to landholding by small farming communities. (Historic Enviroment Scotland)

The remains of at least 29 people, as well as deer and dogs, were found in this cairn.

Little daytrip to Rousay an Orkanian island filled with neolithic finds.

Knowe of Yarso dates back to between 3500 and 2500 BC and was in use until the late 2000s BC. The chamber inside is divided into compartments by upright slabs.

Little daytrip to Rousay an Orkanian island filled with neolithic finds.

Little daytrip to Rousay an Orkanian island filled with neolithic finds.

The site was closed, but I still enjoyed the walk up the hill and the views from here towards “mainland” Orkney and the island Eynhallow.

Little daytrip to Rousay an Orkanian island filled with neolithic finds.

Little daytrip to Rousay an Orkanian island filled with neolithic finds.

Little daytrip to Rousay an Orkanian island filled with neolithic finds.Little daytrip to Rousay an Orkanian island filled with neolithic finds.Little daytrip to Rousay an Orkanian island filled with neolithic finds.