Photos and the City

Slow travel & photography

Visiting the Isle of Mingulay and sitting with puffins.

Welcome to Mingulay, the second largest of the Bishop’s Isles in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland, located about 12 miles south of Barra. I started my boat ride in Eriskay and went with Uist Sea Tours.

Visiting the Isle of Mingulay and sitting with puffins.

It was a calm and fun boat ride, but on arrival at Mingulay, the fun stuff started! The boats are only allowed to land close to some cliffs and we kind of had to crawl on all fours up the cliffs because they were so slippery. I would say our group bonded quite quickly over this and with helping each other and the support of our skippers we all made it up.

Visiting the Isle of Mingulay and sitting with puffins.

Mingulay

Today Mingulay is the home to lots of birds, we came for the puffins. It was the start of the summer season and we were lucky enough to still be able to sit with the birds. Later on, they had to close off the cliffs due to the spreading of the avian flu.

Visiting the Isle of Mingulay and sitting with puffins.

The last inhabitants abandoned Mingulay in 1912, the island is now in the care of the National Trust for Scotland.

The history of the island stretches over seven millennia, and the final families cast off for neighbouring Vatersay in 1912, leaving behind their village homes whose foundations still stand as a reminder of a way of life lost to the unceasing onslaught of the Atlantic elements. (Visit Outer Hebrides)

Visiting the Isle of Mingulay and sitting with puffins.

By 1910 there were only a dozen fishermen in six families living there, and in summer 1912 the island was finally abandoned. Some may have wished to stay, but by now the population had been reduced below a viable number and the lack of a school, which had closed in April 1910, would have been a factor. There is also no doubt that the parish priest, Donald Martin, encouraged the desertion. It is claimed that neither did he like travelling there, nor did the church receive much in the collection box on his visits. (Wikipedia)

Visiting the Isle of Mingulay and sitting with puffins.

After being abandoned Mingulay was sold and bought several times until the National Trust of Scotland purchased it in 2000.

In 2000 Mingulay was acquired by the National Trust for Scotland through a bequest by J. M. Fawcitt “to provide an area of natural beauty in memory of her parents and the courage of her late brother, Bernard. (Wikipedia)

Visiting the Isle of Mingulay and sitting with puffins.

During the summertime, two rangers from the National Trust live in the former school building and record the birdlife on the island. Next to the school are the remains of the chapel with some information about the island.

Visiting the Isle of Mingulay and sitting with puffins.

Walking through the remains of the village towards the cliffs and the puffins.

Visiting the Isle of Mingulay and sitting with puffins.

Visiting the Isle of Mingulay and sitting with puffins.

Puffins of Mingulay

Visiting the Isle of Mingulay and sitting with puffins.

Visiting the Isle of Mingulay and sitting with puffins.

Visiting the Isle of Mingulay and sitting with puffins.Visiting the Isle of Mingulay and sitting with puffins.Visiting the Isle of Mingulay and sitting with puffins.Visiting the Isle of Mingulay and sitting with puffins. Visiting the Isle of Mingulay and sitting with puffins.

This little guy was sitting right next to me, they really don´t mind humans.

Visiting the Isle of Mingulay and sitting with puffins.My favourite image of this day and of all my many many many puffins images.

Visiting the Isle of Mingulay and sitting with puffins.

Visiting the Isle of Mingulay and sitting with puffins.

Visiting the Isle of Mingulay and sitting with puffins.

Visiting the Isle of Mingulay and sitting with puffins.

I enjoyed sitting in the middle of the puffins for about an hour or so before I went back down to the beach.

Visiting the Isle of Mingulay and sitting with puffins.

Visiting the Isle of Mingulay and sitting with puffins.

Visiting the Isle of Mingulay and sitting with puffins.

Visiting the Isle of Mingulay and sitting with puffins.

Visiting the Isle of Mingulay and sitting with puffins.

Visiting the Isle of Mingulay and sitting with puffins.

Going back through the village to our rocky cliffs, we all were joking about how we would slide down the cliffs again until we realized that our lovely skippers had made us a carpet of towels. Going down back to the boat was suddenly very easy.

Visiting the Isle of Mingulay and sitting with puffins.

Visiting the Isle of Mingulay and sitting with puffins.

Traffic jam in South Uist

A classic traffic jam when going home to my thatched cottage.

My thatched Cottage in South Uist

Sunset view from my thatched Cottage in South Uist

Another stunning sunset, which I couldn´t quite enjoy due to the midgets.

Howmore church

Visiting the churches in Howmore, especially the ancient chapels and graveyard.

Howmore Church was built in 1858 and is only the youngest in a long list of churches and chapels in Howmore. I parked the car here and continued walking to the remains of the other ones.

Visiting the churches in Howmore, especially the ancient chapels and graveyard.

View of the Crofters Hostel which was closed during my visit to Howmore.

Visiting the churches in Howmore, especially the ancient chapels and graveyard.

Visiting the churches in Howmore, especially the ancient chapels and graveyard.

View of the series of churches, seen from the hostel.

TEAMPULL MOR

Visiting the churches in Howmore, especially the ancient chapels and graveyard.

It is hard to see where one building ends and another one starts, the wall (probably built out of stone of the chapels) also doesn´t help.

Visiting the churches in Howmore, especially the ancient chapels and graveyard.

This is the Caibeal Dubhghaill, Dougall’s Chapel, measuring just 5.2m by 3.5m. More striking is the large gable containing two windows that lies to your left as you go through the gate in the wall. This was once the east gable of the Teampull Mor, also know as St Mary’s or the Large Church. (Scotland Undiscovered)

Visiting the churches in Howmore, especially the ancient chapels and graveyard.

It isn´t known how old most of the buildings are, but Teampull Mor may have origins as early as the 1200s.

Visiting the churches in Howmore, especially the ancient chapels and graveyard.

Visiting the churches in Howmore, especially the ancient chapels and graveyard.

The remaining two chapels stood at the upper, north-east, corner of the walled area. One was demolished in 1866, but the walls of the other, the Caibeal Chlann ‘ic Ailein, Clan Ranald’s Chapel, still stand. Clan Ranald’s Chapel probably dates back to 1574. (Scotland Undiscovered)

Visiting the churches in Howmore, especially the ancient chapels and graveyard.

Visiting the churches in Howmore, especially the ancient chapels and graveyard.

Visiting the churches in Howmore, especially the ancient chapels and graveyard.

 

Visiting the wild ponies of Eriskay in the Outer Hebrides.

I was in for a special treat – the Eriskay Pony Society offered a guided walk to see the ponies during the “Outer Hebrides Wildlife Festival”.

Visiting the wild ponies of Eriskay in the Outer Hebrides.

I crossed the causeway from South Uist to Eriskay and met the rest of the group in front of the Eriskay shop and up the hill we went. It was a bit boggy in places but the views were just amazing. And suddenly there they were, the wild ponies of Eriskay.

Visiting the wild ponies of Eriskay in the Outer Hebrides.

Our two guides told us about the ponies and how they were used for carrying peat and things. They are also training the young ones so they won´t get too shy.

Until the middle of the 19th Century ponies of the “Western Isles type” were found throughout the islands, where they were used as crofters ponies, undertaking everyday tasks such as bringing home peat and seaweed in basket work creels slung over their backs, pulling carts, harrowing and even taking the children to school.

[…]

However, on the remote island of Eriskay due to difficulties with access and the extra cost implications for sustaining larger animals, other breeds were not introduced, leaving a stock of pure bred ponies which, with increasing mechanisation, had declined to around 20 animals by the early 1970s. (Eriskay Pony Society)

Visiting the wild ponies of Eriskay in the Outer Hebrides.

But today there are about 420 ponies, even though not all of them live in Eriskay.

The Eriskay Pony stands 124-138cm (12.0-13.2 hands) high. In winter a dense waterproof coat enables them to live outside in the harshest conditions. The predominant colour is grey with the occasional black or bay and no other colours normally occur.  Their legs are fine, with neat feet and only a small tuft of hair at the fetlock.  Foals are often born black or bay and usually turn grey as they mature, although a few individuals remain black or bay into adulthood.  Eriskay Ponies are immensely strong for their size and are able to carry a light adult with ease. (The Eriskay Pony Society)

Visiting the wild ponies of Eriskay in the Outer Hebrides.

Visiting the wild ponies of Eriskay in the Outer Hebrides.

Visiting the wild ponies of Eriskay in the Outer Hebrides.

They were training two young ones so we got the opportunity to see them close up.

Visiting the wild ponies of Eriskay in the Outer Hebrides.

Visiting the wild ponies of Eriskay in the Outer Hebrides.

Visiting the wild ponies of Eriskay in the Outer Hebrides.

Setting up the baskets to transport peat and other goods. There were also some treats in there…

Visiting the wild ponies of Eriskay in the Outer Hebrides.

Visiting the wild ponies of Eriskay in the Outer Hebrides.

Visiting the wild ponies of Eriskay in the Outer Hebrides.

He felt left out and also wanted some treats.

Visiting the wild ponies of Eriskay in the Outer Hebrides.

Visiting the wild ponies of Eriskay in the Outer Hebrides.

Don´t ever try to feed the ponies (or any other wildlife), they are very used to a certain diet and won´t tolerate other food, even something like an apple might upset their stomach.

Visiting the wild ponies of Eriskay in the Outer Hebrides.

Visiting the wild ponies of Eriskay in the Outer Hebrides.

Visiting the wild ponies of Eriskay in the Outer Hebrides.

Visiting the wild ponies of Eriskay in the Outer Hebrides.

Visiting the wild ponies of Eriskay in the Outer Hebrides.

Looking out over Eriskay after we left.

Visiting the wild ponies of Eriskay in the Outer Hebrides.