Author: Ursula Schmitz

  • Mussenden Temple and Downhill Demesne

    Mussenden Temple and Downhill Demesne

    Magilligan Point – say “hi” to Ireland. County Donegal is close by! Another very idyllic beach and coast, when you ignore the huge prison along the way.

    Mussenden Temple and Downhill Demesne

    The word ‘demesne’ is used throughout Ireland. It indicates the part of the estate that was usually enclosed by a demesne wall and was for the use of the landowner only. His estate would have been much larger, including all the tenanted lands and may have been made up of parcels of land geographically isolated from each other. (National Trust)

    Two beaches later I arrived at Bishop´s Gate – one of the two entrances to Downhill Demesne and the Mussenden Temple.

    Downhill Demesne which is sometimes simply referred to as Downhill House is an amazing 18th century mansion built by the eccentric Earl Bishop. Beautifully set within open grounds it is the perfect place for a day trip. Bring a picnic and enjoy the sheltered gardens of Hezlett House. (Downhill Demnese)

    Mussenden Temple and Downhill Demesne

    After a short walk through beautiful gardens and even a little wood (The Black Glen) suddenly this comes into view! Downhill House. Frederick Hervey, the 4th Earl of Bristol as well as the Bishop of Cloyne and later the Bishop of Derry, commissioned the estate in 1768 and construction began in 1755.

    After the death in 1803 of Lord Bristol (he had succeeded to the Earldom in December 1779), the estate passed to his cousin, The Rev. Henry Bruce, who had acted as steward of the Estate during the Earl-Bishop’s absences. Bruce’s sister was Frideswide Mussenden, for whom Mussenden Temple was built, and which became a memorial after her death. (Downhill House)

    Mussenden Temple and Downhill DemesneMussenden Temple and Downhill Demesne

    Walled garden and old icehouse.

    The house was seriously damaged in 1839 and big parts of the house were damaged by a fire in 1851. Reconstruction works began in 1870 and continued until 1874.

    Mussenden Temple and Downhill DemesneMussenden Temple and Downhill Demesne

    During World War II Downhill House hosted RAF servicemen and -women. The Bruce family owned the demnese until 1946, by 1950 it has been dismantled and the surrounding land was sold. The National Trust acquired the house in 1980.

    Mussenden Temple and Downhill DemesneMussenden Temple and Downhill Demesne

    Dining Room

    Mussenden Temple and Downhill DemesneMussenden Temple and Downhill Demesne

    First view of the Mussenden Temple, the library and monument to Bishop Lord Bristol’s niece Frideswide Bruce. It´s said that the relationship between Earl Bishop and Frideswide was far too close and he often stayed with his “cher cousin”. Frideswide later married the banker Daniel Mussenden.

    Mussenden Temple and Downhill Demesne

    Downhill House is seen from Mussenden Temple.

    Mussenden Temple and Downhill Demesne

    Mussenden Temple, a library modeled on the Temple of Vesta in Tivoli. Perched dramatically at the edge of a basalt cliff on the coast of Ireland east of Derry, the perilous location and design of Mussenden Temple embodies many of the aesthetic ideals of the philosopher Edmund Burke’s A Philosophical Enquiry into the Origin of Our Ideas of the Sublime and the Beautiful. (World Monument Fund)

    Mussenden Temple and Downhill Demesne

    Once it was possible to drive a carriage around the temple – nobody would try to do this today. Nature has brought it right on the edge. The National Trust had some cliff stabilisation work done in 1997.

    Built in 1785 as a library it was once lined with bookcases and a fired burnt day and night in the basement to keep the books dry. Today you would be married in the Temple!

    Mussenden Temple and Downhill DemesneMussenden Temple and Downhill Demesne

    View of Downhill Beach.

    Mussenden Temple and Downhill DemesneMussenden Temple and Downhill Demesne

    Lion´s Gate – the second entrance to the demnese.

    Downhill Demnese is open all year from dusk till dawn and you wouldn´t want to miss it! Located near Castlerock it´s just a short (and beautiful) drive from the Causeway.

  • Carrick-a-rede Rope Bridge

    carrick a robe bridge, causeway coast, northern ireland, uk, roadtripcarrick a robe bridge, causeway coast, northern ireland, uk, roadtrip

    After a night full of shooting stars I was ready for another highlight at the Causeway Coast: the Carrick-a-rede robe bridge.

    Connected to the cliffs by a rope bridge across the Atlantic Ocean, Carrick-a-Rede Island (home to a single building – a fisherman’s cottage) is the final destination.

    Suspended almost 100 ft (30 m) above sea level, the rope bridge was first erected by salmon fishermen 350 years ago. (National Trust)

    carrick a robe bridge, causeway coast, northern ireland, uk, roadtrip

    It´s a lovely one-mile walk along the cliffs from the parking to the “final destination” – the bridge. If you´re like me and not that excited about crossing a rope bridge high up in the air, you don´t have to pay anything, one only needs a ticket for crossing the bridge to the island. And these tickets have time slots, during high season it´s probably better to be there bright and early. No online pre-booking possible – find all the information on the site of the National Trust.

    carrick a robe bridge, causeway coast, northern ireland, uk, roadtripcarrick a robe bridge, causeway coast, northern ireland, uk, roadtrip

    carrick a robe bridge, causeway coast, northern ireland, uk, roadtrip

    Scotland in the back.

    carrick a robe bridge, causeway coast, northern ireland, uk, roadtripcarrick a robe bridge, causeway coast, northern ireland, uk, roadtripcarrick a robe bridge, causeway coast, northern ireland, uk, roadtripcarrick a robe bridge, causeway coast, northern ireland, uk, roadtripcarrick a robe bridge, causeway coast, northern ireland, uk, roadtrip

  • Dark Hedges

    dark hedges, game of thrones, northern ireland, uk, roadtrip

    When I did research my trip to the Causeway Coast pictures of this street always popped up – it was impossible to miss them! Another location from “Game of Thrones” and probably as often photographed as the Giant´s Causeway! I assume James Stuart didn´t expect this to happen when he planted these more than 150 breech trees along the entrance road to his estate in 1775.

    dark hedges, game of thrones, northern ireland, uk, roadtrip

    Even so, I came in the evening there was quite a few people around. This actually is a normal road (Bregagh Road), so be aware that there might be traffic! The cars you see in the picture weren´t traffic, but just people who were too lazy to use the free parking next to the hotel – just two minutes walk away from the road.

    Please use the parking at the Hedges Hotel, it´s a lovely short walk through the Gracehill House estate to reach the beech-lined road. And as I just learned, traffic has been banned from this part of the road last October, I´ve just been one and a half month too early!

    dark hedges, game of thrones, northern ireland, uk, roadtrip

    James Stuart built Gracehill House in 1775,

    the opposing rows of beech trees were meant to create an impressive, scenic road leading up to their estate, Gracehill House. However as the trees matured they began to bend over the road and their upper branches intermingled creating a shadowy arboreal tunnel. (Atlas Obscura)

    dark hedges, game of thrones, northern ireland, uk, roadtripdark hedges, game of thrones, northern ireland, uk, roadtrip

    After a lovely walk through the tunnel (and some waiting until most of the people were gone) I was ready to drive back to the coast and my B&B – and a short stop to admire White Park Bay Beach in the sunset! And I was ready to enjoy the Perseid Meteor Showers. I´ve never seen so many falling stars, having no light pollution really helps!

    white park bay beach, northern ireland, uk, causeway coast

    white park bay beach, northern ireland, uk, causeway coastwhite park bay beach, northern ireland, uk, causeway coast