I had to say goodbye to my Folly Cottage in Haworth, board the Brontëbus one last time and one train later I arrived in York. I stayed a bit outside the city centre and walked through Rowntree Park towards the city walls.
Situated at the junction of two rivers York was founded by the Romans in 71AD and became the capital of “Britannia Inferior” and later of the kingdoms of Deira, Northumbria and Jórvík, a Vikings capital.
York City Walls
I started exploring York with a walk on the city walls starting at the Micklegate Bar – once the most important gateway into the walled city.
York had been defended by walls since the Roman times, even today some parts of the original Roman walls and the Multangular Tower are still visible and can be visited in the Museum Gardens.
The name of this four-storey-high gatehouse is from the Old Norse ‘mykla gata’ or ‘great street’, and leads onto Micklegate (‘gate’ is Norwegian for ‘street’ remaining from Viking influence in York). It was the traditional ceremonial gate for monarchs entering the city, who, in a tradition dating to Richard II in 1389, touch the state sword when entering the gate.
The lower section was built in the 12th century while the top storeys in the 14th; the original barbican was removed in 1826. (Wikipedia)
The two top floors were inhabited until the mid 20th century, today they house a small museum.
The Victorians restored the walls, widened the wall-walk and rebuilt some parts.
View of York Minster, the Gothic Cathedral, from the city walls.
Museum Gardens
From the picturesque the Medieval ruins of St. Mary’s Abbey, the Multangular Tower and other stunning buildings there is much to see and to do in the Museum Gardens. And it´s also the perfect place to relax and take a breath. The city was quite full and after my quiet days in Brontë Country, I felt a bit overwhelmed.
Remains of the Roman fort are on both sides of the gardens and then there is the tower which is partly Roman and Medieval.
A 76-foot (23 m) section of 4th-century wall connects the Multangular Tower to a small interval tower. The side of the wall and towers facing into Museum Gardens is carefully faced in stone, as during the Roman period it was on display. The other side is rougher because it was originally covered by an earth bank. The wall and towers were still in use after the end of the Roman period in Britain, and were subsequently incorporated into the medieval city walls. (wikipedia)
One morning in Haworth I hopped on the Brontëbus to Keighly and from there to Saltaire by train.
Saltaire is located near Bradford and is a Victorian model village, built in 1851 by Sir Titus Salt, a leading industrialist who wanted the workers of his woollen mills to be healthy and having good living quarters. Today Saltaire is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Salt built neat stone houses for his workers (much better than the slums of Bradford), wash-houses with tap water, bath-houses, a hospital and an institute for recreation and education, with a library, a reading room, a concert hall, billiard room, science laboratory and a gymnasium. The village had a school for the children of the workers, almshouses, allotments, a park and a boathouse” (wikipedia)
Saltaire offered recreational activities like bands and clubs, but there was also a strict no-alcohol policy!
Sir Titus died in 1876 and after the death of Titus son Saltaire was taken over by a partnership which included Sir James Roberts from Haworth. Roberts had worked in wool mills since the age of eleven and had quite the business interests in Russia.
Roberts came to own Saltaire, but chose to invest his money heavily in Russia, losing some of his fortune in the Russian Revolution. He endowed a chair of Russian at Leeds University and bought the Brontë’s Haworth Parsonage for the nation. (wikipedia)
Salts Mill had to close down in 1986, like many other textile mills but was bought in 1987 by Jonathan Silver, an entrepreneur from Bradford, who started to renovate it. Today Salts Mill houses an art gallery, a museum, coffee shops, an amazing book shop and also some industrial companies.
In December 2001 Saltaire was designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.
Saltaire, West Yorkshire, is a complete and well-preserved industrial village of the second half of the 19th century. Its textile mills, public buildings and workers’ housing are built in a harmonious style of high architectural standards and the urban plan survives intact, giving a vivid impression of Victorian philanthropic paternalism. (UNESCO)
After walking around the lovely village for a bit I met a fellow photographer. Carolyn and I met at a workshop in Italy and used my visit for a little catching up over ice cream and soup at the Salts Mill. Carolyn just had finished her project “In Between”, photographing girls between 10 and 12 years. At this stage in life when you´re half kid half teenager and lots of things are just a bit confusing.
The little bit bigger houses were the ones of the foremen.
Salts Mill
Saltaire has been featured in various movies and TV shows like the upcoming Netflix-series by Julian Fellows “The English Game”.
After walking in the footsteps of the Brontë sisters, sitting at “their” waterfall and bridge, it was about time to visit the Parsonage, their former home in Haworth. During the time the Brontë family lived at the Parsonage it was described as a black house, isolated on top of a hill over Haworth, next to the church. Back then there weren´t any trees surrounding the house, like today, and the house overlooked the cemetery.
the dining room, with the original dining table
The Parsonage was built between 1778 and 1779 and in 1820 Patrick Brontë arrived with his wife Maria and their six children in Haworth to start his post at St Michael and All Angels’ Church. The house remained their home for the rest of their lives.
Maria died in 1821 and her sister Elizabeth came to take charge of the household.
The four oldest sisters were sent away to attend the Clergy Daughters’ School at Cowan Bridge in 1824, but Maria, the oldest, became ill and was sent back home, where she died. The youngest Elizabeth followed her shortly.
Charlotte later used the School as a model for the infamous Lowood School in her novel “Jane Eyre”.
For the next few years the surviving children remained at home, creating a rich imaginary world sparked by their father’s gift to Branwell of a set of toy soldiers. Because of the important role education had played in his own life Patrick encouraged his children in their pursuit of knowledge. Any books that came their way were eagerly devoured, and they produced their own tiny illustrated books, small enough for the toy soldiers, with minuscule handwriting to deter the prying eyes of Parsonage adults.(Brontë.org.uk)
the children’s study
The sisters needed to earn a living and should become “governesses: the only career option socially acceptable for young ladies with no fortune.” Charlotte was sent to Miss Wooler’s school at Roe Head in 1831 and later returned to Haworth to teach her sisters and at the local school, her father had opened.
Branwell, the only son, was educated by his father and mostly left to himself.
Branwell took art lessons in Leeds, but a plan to apply to the Royal Academy of Arts in London never came off, and after a short stint as a professional portrait painter in Bradford Branwell was back in Haworth in debt. (Brontë.org.uk)
After a quite unsuccessful time as a teach Emily returned to Haworth in 1839, only Anne worked as a governess for a few years returning to the Parsonage in 1845, shortly after her brother Branwell.
Planning to set up a school themselves Emily and Charlotte went to Brussels to study for a year, funded by their aunt Elizabeth. But she died in 1842 and the sisters had to return.
The sisters had continued to write, and in 1846 Charlotte, Emily and Anne used part of their Aunt Branwell’s legacy to finance the publication of their poems, concealing their true identities under the pseudonyms Currer, Ellis and Acton Bell. Poems was published by Aylott and Jones, but despite some favourable reviews, only two copies were sold. Undeterred, the sisters absorbed themselves in their next literary venture, novel writing. (Brontë.org.uk)
Patrick´s sleeping room
After a few unsuccessful attempts to get published Charlotte’s “Jane Eyre” was accepted right away and became an instant success. Followed by “Wuthering Heights” and “Agnes Grey”.
In July 1848 the sisters were forced to reveal their identities to their publisher. They didn´t have to much time to celebrate their success. Branwell had fallen back on alcohol and opium for solace and felt ill, he suddenly died of tuberculosis in September 1848, aged 31.
Branwell´s desk
Emily and Anne were also ill and Emily died just three months after her brother. In an attempt to save Anne and get her well again, Charlotte took her for a sea cure to Scarborough. But Anne died there at the end of May 1849, aged 29.
Charlotte tried to escape in work and travelled to London often, gradually becoming known as an author. In 1854 Charlotte married her father´s curate, the Reverend Arthur Bell Nicholls but died in the early stages of pregnancy in 1855, aged 39. Two years later her very first novel “The Professor” was finally published. In the same year her friends Elizabeth Gaskell biography “The Life of Charlotte Brontë” was also published.
This biography, along with Charlotte’s Biographical Notice of her sisters, have become key sources for interpretations of the family, and have ensured that the story of the Brontës’ lives continues to exert as much fascination as their fiction. (brontë.org.uk)
The Brontë Society
Even before Charlotte died in 1855 enthusiastic visitors were making their way to Haworth to spot the famous author around the village. Mr Brontë’s Sunday afternoon congregations were sometimes swollen with sightseers, eager for a glimpse of his daughter, or, failing that, happy just hear her father preach. (brontë.org.uk)
The Brontë Society was founded in 1893 and the first museum was opened in 1895 above the Yorkshire Penny Bank on Haworth Main Street. The collection of all things Brontë had started.
In 1928 the Church put up for sale Haworth Parsonage at a price of £3000, and it was bought by Sir James Roberts, a Haworth-born wool merchant and lifetime Brontë Society member, who handed the Society the deeds. It was, of course, the perfect home for their collection. (brontë.org.uk)
The Parsonage is open almost every day and your ticket will be valid for 12 months. It isn´t the biggest house, therefor it fills up fast. I went twice and was lucky to find an almost empty house shortly before closing time. I would recommend visiting later in the afternoon.
And after your visit to the Brontës enjoy the Haworth Main Street and especially my favourite shop, where some centuries ago Branwell went to get his laudanum.
