Tag: UK

  • The Hill House by Charlie Macintosh

    The Hill House in Helensburgh near Glasgow designed by Charlie Macintosh.

    After a day of strolling around Glasgow I picked up my rental car and started driving towards Oban for my first ferry – but already had planned to stop at The Hill House in Helensburgh near Glasgow.

    Commissioned by Glasgow book publisher Walter Blackie, up-and-coming architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh and artist Margaret Macdonald worked collaboratively to create almost everything you see here, from the building itself to the furniture and textiles. (National Trust Scotland)

    The first view of the Hill House was a view of a box! This transparent porous “box” was added around the house around 2019 to protect the building and help it to dry out again.

    The Hill House in Helensburgh near Glasgow designed by Charlie Macintosh.

    Walter Blackie purchased the grounds in 1902 for his future family home, he then commissioned the up-and-coming architect Charlie Macintosh – The Hill House was completed in 1904 and is considered Machintosh’s domestic masterpiece.

    The Hill House in Helensburgh near Glasgow designed by Charlie Macintosh.

    Mackintosh believed that to design a home properly he had to understand the needs of its occupants, so he spent a great deal of time with the Blackie family during the project’s initial stage to ensure his proposal suited their lifestyle. (dezeen.com)

    Blackie later described the process that they designed from the inside out. Macintosh observed how the family and also the staff would use the house and what they would need.

    The building displays typical Mackintosh influences, with a robust exterior referencing Scottish vernacular architecture, contrasting with a highly ornamental interior, featuring oriental themes alongside art-nouveau and art-deco details. (dezeen.com)

    Macintosh and his wife the artist Margaret MacDonald designed almost every element of the house, from the architecture to the furniture, fireplaces, lighting and textiles.

    Margaret was an established artist before they met, and helped to define the Mackintosh style. From the embroidered hangings in the main bedroom to the ‘Sleeping Princess’ panel above the fireplace in the drawing room, Margaret was responsible for some of the house’s most famous features. (National Trust for Scotland)

    But Blackie couldn´t afford to finish the interior entirely according to Mackintosh’s designs, so the architect focused on the main spaces of the hallway, library, master bedroom and drawing room.

    The Hill House in Helensburgh near Glasgow designed by Charlie Macintosh.

    It is a play of light and dark as well as masculine and feminine. From the masculine dark rooms like the library and entrance to the bright feminine rooms like the master bedroom and the drawing room, making the most of the natural light.

    The Hill House in Helensburgh near Glasgow designed by Charlie Macintosh.

    Charles and Margaret’s style was avant-garde, and some people criticised the lack of colour. Walter Blackie’s daughter, Ruth, preferred to describe it as ‘an unfussiness’. (National Trust for Scotland)

    The Hill House in Helensburgh near Glasgow designed by Charlie Macintosh.

    The Hill House in Helensburgh near Glasgow designed by Charlie Macintosh.

    The Hill House in Helensburgh near Glasgow designed by Charlie Macintosh.

    Macintosh was ahead of his time in Britain, even though he was greatly admired in Europe. There were exhibitions of his work in Vienna and he used to be in contact with Josef Hoffmann. But the Hill House never received the glowing reviews that would help Mackintosh continue his ground-breaking work. After a few more commissions in Glasgow Macintosh moved to London and designed book covers for Walter Blackie. Later he spent time in France and painted watercolours.

    It was not until the late 1920s and 30s that the work of Charles Rennie Mackintosh began to be appreciated more widely. But for Charles it was too late. After years of ill health, he died in London in December 1928, aged 60. (National Trust for Scotland)

    The Hill House in Helensburgh near Glasgow designed by Charlie Macintosh.

    The Hill House in Helensburgh near Glasgow designed by Charlie Macintosh.

    The Blackie family continued to live in the Hill House and cherished their unique home until the upkeep with the water ingress problems became too hard and they gave the house to the National Trust of Scotland in the 1980s.

    The house was mainly built out of Portland cement which just isn´t suitable for the Scottish weather and there were many problems with water ingress. In 2017 a study of the house showed that the water damages were so big that the whole structure was at risk. The National Trust of Scotland started a ten-year project to save the Hill House. An enormous see-through structure was designed by London architecture studio Carmody Groarke to protect the house from the wind and rain.

    The Hill House in Helensburgh near Glasgow designed by Charlie Macintosh.

    The Hill House in Helensburgh near Glasgow designed by Charlie Macintosh.

    Stairs along the box and gangways now offer us truly special views of the house – you can even walk over the rooftop and admire it from all sides.

    The Hill House in Helensburgh near Glasgow designed by Charlie Macintosh.

    The Hill House in Helensburgh near Glasgow designed by Charlie Macintosh.

    The Hill House in Helensburgh near Glasgow designed by Charlie Macintosh.

    The Hill House is surrounded by a stunning garden and there is also a coffee house – I would definitely recommend visiting this former residential home. It was fun to see influences that might have come from Macintosh’s visits to Vienna.

     

     

  • My Hebridean Summer 2022

    After getting to know Lewis & Harris in 2021 I decided to explore the Hebrides even more. Starting in Glasgow I went to the Outer Hebrides, Barra – Eriskay – South Uist – North Uist – Harris & Lewis and to the Inner Hebrides with a short stop in Argyll & Bute: Mull – Staffa – Tiree – Islay. Unfortunately, I had to cancel my last island Eigg due to the train strikes, but it will work out another time.

    The famous gate at Vatersay beach - Barra, Outer Hebrides in Soctland
    The gate to paradise – Vatersay, Isle of Barra
    Two puffins on Mingulay, Scotland
    Two puffins on Mingulay, Outer Hebrides
    View over some rocks in Tiree, right next to the Tiree Gin distillery.
    Tiree

     

  • Incholm Island

    exploring Incholm Island in the Firth of Forth near Edinburgh

    Greeted by an island of Gnomes we arrived at Incholm Island in the Firth of Forth, some say it is the most beautiful of all of the islands in the Firth of Forth. Situated about 4 miles east of the Forth Bridge we were welcomed by this stunning view of Incholm Abbey.

    exploring Incholm Island in the Firth of Forth near Edinburgh

    exploring Incholm Island in the Firth of Forth near Edinburgh

    Bye for now boat!

    Incholm Abbey

    Incholm Abbey is the best-preserved group of monastic buildings in Scotland. The abbey was originally a priory founded by David I. During the centuries the abbey saw conflict as well as calm.

    exploring Incholm Island in the Firth of Forth near Edinburgh

    Inchcolm means ‘Colm’s Isle’, and it is also called the ‘Iona of the east’, but doesn´t share any links with Iona.

    The Augustinian canons settled here in the early 1100s, to enjoy the island’s peace and isolation. But Inchcolm’s Firth of Forth location also made it a target. English naval raids were common during the wars with England from the 1300s to the mid-1500s. (HistoricenviromentScotland)

    exploring Incholm Island in the Firth of Forth near Edinburgh

    It was the Protestant Reformation of 1560 which finally brought monastic life to an end. But Inchcolm continued to serve in the defence of the country right up to the Second World War.

    exploring Incholm Island in the Firth of Forth near Edinburgh

    It is even said that a hermit lived on Incholm Island before the foundation of the abbey. Inchcolm’s oldest relic is a 10th-century ‘hogback’ tombstone. In 1123 Alexander I sheltered on the island and resolved to build a monastery in thanks for his life being saved.

    He died in 1124 before being able to keep his promise. So his brother, David I, invited Augustinian canons to establish the island priory. Inchcolm was raised to full abbey status in 1235.

    exploring Incholm Island in the Firth of Forth near Edinburgh

    The abbey church was enlarged to the east around 1265. In the 1400s, a new church was built, and an abbot’s residence created above the original church. The choir of the 13th-century church became the nave of the later church and is now mostly wall footings. But a striking fresco painting of a funeral procession, dating from the 1200s, survives in a tomb recess. Also remarkable are the stone screens dividing the choir from the nave. (Historicenviroment Scotland)

    exploring Incholm Island in the Firth of Forth near Edinburgh

     

    Incholm was attacked by England numerous times. In 1795, during the Napoleonic Wars, a gun battery was installed when the French threatened to invade. Inchcolm was heavily fortified in the early 1900s and during World War II to help defend: Edinburgh, the Forth Bridges and the Rosyth naval base.

    The remains are still seen today.

    exploring Incholm Island in the Firth of Forth near Edinburgh

    Incholm Island is home to thousands of birds, there is a notice everywhere that one should not scare the birds and might get pooed on. A large colony of seagulls and fulmars live on Incholm Island.

    I started walking up the little hill, didn´t see that many birds, wasn´t attacked and just enjoyed the views.

    exploring Incholm Island in the Firth of Forth near Edinburgh

    exploring Incholm Island in the Firth of Forth near Edinburgh

    The next boat arrived a few hours later and we were on our way back home to South Queensferry. One last look toward “Iona of the East”.

    exploring Incholm Island in the Firth of Forth near Edinburgh

    exploring Incholm Island in the Firth of Forth near Edinburgh

    Going through the three Forth bridges – that house has an amazing location!

    exploring Incholm Island in the Firth of Forth near Edinburgh

    exploring Incholm Island in the Firth of Forth near Edinburgh

    Two of the three bridges.

    exploring Incholm Island in the Firth of Forth near Edinburgh

    And with this iconic, we conclude the Scottish Island summer of 2021 – it definitely was an extraordinary and unique summer. hopefully, there won´t be another time with me being one of only “foreign foreign” tourists in Shetland or Orkney. I enjoyed the calmness but it was also a bit strange sometimes.

    Speaking of Shetland, I will go back to the Northern Island this summer, the summer of 2023. Until then I will tell you about my “Hebridean Summer” of 2022.