Photos and the City

Tag: Scotland

Barra from my doorstep

While I stayed on the Isle of Barra, the “Outer Hebrides Wildlife Festival” started – there were talks, walks, and other exciting things happening all over the Outer Hebrides. I choose a “Dolphin & Whale Spotting Walk” for Barra along the East Beach.

So early morning I made my way to the airport.

There aren´t any more images from that day, as soon as I met the ranger (she came over from the Isle of Mull) at the parking spot, it started to rain with full force. We took some shelter behind the van of the ranger from Barra while talking about dolphins and whales and how to spot them. I also learned about the “Barra Boys”, a school of dolphins often seen in Barra

Afterwards, the three of us walked along the beach and got a bit more wet. We didn´t see any wildlife except a few birds, but I heard a lot about life on the islands, which was as interesting.

The big story of the day: a dead hedgehog was found! Both rangers were very excited about that and speculated if it had been a blind passenger of a van if he died on the islands and more. I must have looked very confused, so they told me that hedgehogs don´t live in Barra (and the rest of the Outer Hebrides) and also might disturb the local wildlife if imported from the mainland. A few days later I went on a different hike in Eriskay, the next island of the Outer Hebrides and even there they talked about THAT hedgehog found in Barra.

For the next few days heavy rain and wind set in, but I tried to use the few drier moments to explore Barra and get some steps in. The Ardmhor ferry, which goes to Eriskay and South Uist.

View from my doorstep

Another view from my doorstep.

I had a visitor.

After lots of rain, there is sometimes a rainbow!

27/06/2023
Dùn Ban and Halaman Bay

I used one of the nicer days in Barra for a walk from Loch Tangasdale to Dùn Bar and back to Halman Bay. Follow the exact walk here on Walking Highlands.

Starting from a phone booth, I passed an old bunker from World War 2 and soon saw the Loch on my left.

Across the loch I saw the remains of Macleod’s Tower near the far shore; the tower dates back to 1430 and is thought to have been built on the site of an iron age crannog.

View over the loch while I start my ascend of Beinn Tangabhal going through a small glen beneath Beinn Tangabhal and Beinn na Leig and passing the remains of former houses.

It was a few steps after this picture that I found myself hip-deep in a mud hole – not the most fun experience but I got out again and continued. It was pretty wet and muddy everywhere after the weeks and months of a lot of rain.

View toward Halman Bay and the stunning beach.

Continuing to the cairns and the amazing views over the west coast of Barra.

I tried to find the way to the fort, Dùn Ban, but in the end, I just enjoyed the views.

On the way back looking back to the cairns.

Halman Bay and some time on the beach.

20/06/2023
Castlebay

After my walk along the East Beach and Barra Airport, I drove along the other side of the island towards Castlebay, the main settlement on the Isle of Barra. Castlebay is located on the island’s south coast and overlooks a bay in the Atlantic Ocean dominated by Kisimul Castle, as well as nearby islands such as Vatersay.

The story of Castlebay is deeply entwined with the stories of Clan MacNeil and of Kisimul Castle, the castle in the bay after which Castlebay takes its name. Barra was granted to the Clan MacNeil by Alexander, Lord of the Isles, in 1427. (Scotland Undiscovered.com)

The Clan MacNeil held Barra for the next 400 years until Roderick MacNeil ran out of money in 1838 and sold Barra to Colonel John Gordon of Cluny. Gordon wanted to make room for sheep and forcefully cleared a lot of Barra, which he did to other places in the Hebrides.

Kisimul Castle was also abandoned in 1838 when the island was sold, and the castle’s condition subsequently deteriorated. At the moment there is restoration work going on in the castle and it wasn´t possible to visit it.

In 1937 the American architect Robert MacNeil, who had been recognised as the 45th Clan Chief of the MacNeils, visited Barra soon after the opening of the airstrip on the island. He purchased most of the Barra estate lost in 1838. (Scotland Undiscovered.com)

In 2000 the current Laird leased Kisimul Castle to the Historic Environment for Scotland for 1,000 years for a rent of a bottle of whisky and £1 a year. And in 2003 he started a process that will lead to public ownership of the whole island, at no cost.

After Gordon had died in 1856 Castlebay became a spot of a fishing industry. 400 small fishing boats were based here, together with the associated gutting, curing and preserving facilities.

By 1894 there were three steamers a week linking Castlebay with Oban, and the Castlebay Hotel had been opened. The Church of Scotland that was built overlooking the harbour on this predominantly Catholic island in 1892 did not thrive: the building remains today, but is disused. The Catholic Church of Our Lady Star of the Sea, built in 1889, has fared better. (Scotland Undiscovered.com)

In 1949 the first “Whisky Galore” movie was filmed in Barra, even though the events were based in Eriskay. This movie put Barra on the map and the hotel began to thrive.

And here is my lovely home for the week in Barra. A lovely and very cosy cottage north of Barra, overlooking the sea.

15/06/2023