Category: Italia

  • Bologna

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    I didn´t know that much about Bologna before booking my train ticket, except that there are many aches, universities, two towers and Pasta Bolognese.

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    While arriving I realised that Bologna was way bigger than I thought it would be, it took me about forty minutes to walk from my airbnb to the “Old City”, the city centre – Piazza Maggiore. And there were way more towers than the famous two towers! Returned from San Luca and strengthened by caffé and gelato I explored the inner city around the Due Torri.

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    No small wonder Bologna has earned so many historical monikers. La Grassa (the fat one) celebrates a rich food legacy (ragù or bolognese sauce was first concocted here). La Dotta (the learned one) doffs a cap to the city university founded in 1088. La Rossa (the red one) alludes to the ubiquity of the terracotta medieval buildings adorned with miles of porticoes, as well as the city’s long-standing penchant for left-wing politics. (Lonely Planet)

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    First settled around 1000 BC Bologna looks back on a rich history from the Etruscans to Napoleon to being under the rule of the Papal States to becoming part of the Kingdom of Italy 1860.

    The city developed along the Via Emilia first as an Etruscan and later Roman colony.

    “the Via Emilia still runs straight through the city under the changing names of Strada Maggiore, Rizzoli, Ugo Bassi, and San Felice. Due to its Roman heritage, the central streets of Bologna, today largely pedestrianized, follow the grid pattern of the Roman settlement. The original Roman ramparts were supplanted by a high medieval system of fortifications, remains of which are still visible, and finally by a third and final set of ramparts built in the 13th century, of which numerous sections survive. No more than twenty medieval defensive towers remain out of up to 180 that were built in the 12th and 13th centuries before the arrival of unified civic government. The most famous of the towers of Bologna are the central “Due Torri” (Asinelli and Garisenda), whose iconic leaning forms provide a popular symbol of the town.” (Wikipedia)

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    The city centre is filled with many important monuments from the medieval, renaissance, and baroque times. And full of life!

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    The taller one of the Due Turri – the Asinelli Tower, built in 1109 to 1119 by the Asinelli family, 97,20 metres high.

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    The hidden canals of Bologna –  there are actually quite a few canals running through the heart of Bologna.

    Bologna has a 60 km network of largely covered over canals. As early as the twelfth century the city provided itself with a hydraulic system consisting of locks, canals and underground pipes that distributed the water which was used mainly as an energy source for trades. (Bologna Welcome)

    A window in the Via Piella offers an especially picturesque view of one of the canals – around the corner, one can only hear another one but not see.

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  • Santuario della Madonna di San Luca

    From Venezia Santa Lucia I took a train to Bologna to spend the weekend there. My Airbnb apartment was located in Bolognina, a very lively and multiculti part of Bologna. But more to that in another post. The next day was Sunday, “La Festa della Mamma” and after having walked into the city centre I took the San Luca Express (a little electrical train) to go up the Basilica Santuario della Madonna di San Luca, which lies on a hill a little bit outside the city.

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    After a short drive through the city centre, we went up!

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    The road (now) goes along 666 roofed arches – with 3,8 km length the longest Portico worldwide.

    Built in 1674-1793. It was meant to protect the icon as it was paraded up the hill. A yearly procession from the Cathedral of San Pietro in the centre of Bologna to the Sanctuary goes along this path. Originally the arches held icons or chapels erected by the patron family. Wikipedia

    A church or chapel had existed for over a 1000 years on Monte della Guardia, the present basilica has been built in 1723 and reminded me a little bit of a lighthouse – it must be visible from afar. And houses the Icon of Virgin Mary, allegedly painted by Luke the Evangelist.

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    The view over the area surrounding Bologna and the city itself is just breathtaking!

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    And after a while, I made my way back through the 666 arcades to the city. Even so, it was built to protect the yearly procession it also protects you from the sun (or the rain). And there are quite a few things to discover while walking, doors going somewhere, little chapels and of course the view!

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    And on this point, I´ve returned to the city and there appeared bars, restaurants, gelaterias and other shops in the arcades.

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    Almost four kilometres later I´ve reached arcade #1. And was ready to explore the inner city!

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  • Walking around Dorsoduro

    I did enjoy my stay in this quarter of Venice a lot – it is way quieter than the area around San Marco but still you´re there within minutes. The only thing missing was the view from the Ponte dell´Academia, which is still fully scaffolded. I didn´t bring my camera for this walks, so this is seen through my phone.

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    Dorsoduro, a hop over the Grand Canal via the Accademia bridge, has as many great museums, galleries and churches, but a fraction of the crowds and costs. Artists and designers are moving into the eastern end of the sestiere, and the north-western tip has the city’s liveliest nightlife, in the alleyways around a large studenty square. (The Guardian)

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    Early morning walking to the Peggy Guggenheim museum – one of my favourite places in Venice. There are lots of little bars in that area, the bacari, where you can find cheap little snacks the whole day.

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    Besides the stunning Palazzi along the Canale Grande there are also a lot of more modest worker houses, esp on the west side – just stroll along the winding canals at some time they always end up at the Fondamente Zattere – the beautiful boardwalk along the Giudecca Canale.

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    Or just watch how Gondolas are made – vis a vis is a great little wine bar and it´s the perfect spot to enjoy some vino and antipasti.

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