Photos and the City

Author: Ursula Schmitz

Sandwick

It is getting late and I only had time for one last stop before going back to Yell. Sandwick – another Viking settlement in Unst. And one has to say, the Vikings definitely built their longhouses on the nicest spots! Sandwick – coming from “Sandy Bay” is said to be one of the most beautiful beaches in the Shetlands.

Put first the biggest standing stone in the Shetland Islands: Menhir von Bordastubble

I made my way down to Sandwick, meeting new friends along the way.

Sands of Sandwick

Walking down to the beach I first saw the remains of a little church, Framgord chapel, and the remains of croft houses on the hills going down to the beach.

Just above the beach are the remains of a Pictish house from the Stone Age. Two Pictish Burials were found nearby.

Late Norse Farm

A house with a view – or like we would say today: prime real estate.

But this long house was probably further away from the sea back then when it was lived in.

Another Viking house was found further up on the hill.

Another view of the chapel and croft seen from the beach.

17/02/2022
Vikings in Unst

There are the remains of at least 60 longhouses to be found in Unst, the highest density of rural Viking sites anywhere, including Scandinavia.

Unst is closer to Norway than to Edinburgh and probably was the first footfall for the Old Norse in the Atlantic.

I started to make my way back down south again and stopped at a Viking Longhouse, I already had seen on my way up. There are the remains of at least 60 longhouses to be found in Unst, the highest density of rural Viking sites anywhere, including Scandinavia.

Unst is closer to Norway than to Edinburgh and probably was the first foot-fall for the old Norse in the Atlantic.

Haroldswick

This reconstruction of a Viking longhouse in Harlodswick was modelled after the remains of the longhouses in Hamar, Underhoull and Belmont.

The house is bigger than expected and felt almost cosy.

The Skidbladner

Right next to the longhouse stands the reconstruction of a Viking boat.

The Skidbladner is a full size replica of the Gokstad ship, found in a Viking burial mound in norway in 1880. (Shetland Amenity Trust)

The original boat was probably built during the reign of Harald Fairhar, who is said to have landed in Unst. These types of boats were used for trade, warfare and also just general travel.

St. John´s Church

St John’s was originally built from 1825 to 1827, back then Baltasound grew up to 10.000 people in the summer for the herring season and the wast church offered space for 2000 of them. The original foundations are still visible around today’s church which was built in 1957.

Underhoull

I travelled west towards a broch and another longhouse in Underhoull. Admiring the amazing views over the cliffs and sea this must have been a spectacular space to live.

I first wandered around the broch and enjoyed the views in all directions.

Right next to the broch, just in the next field lie the remains of a longhouse and second one nearby.

Excavation of the Upper Underhoull longhouse revealed some exciting information. The site appeared to have been occupied for a long period of time, and modified, with outhouses, annexes and drains added during different phases of its development. There was a double faced stone wall on the southern, long-wall of the house, which faced the sea, and would have been built to impress. The ‘back wall’ was turf built on the northern side, and would have provided good insulation. (Shetland Aminity Trust)

There was a wooden floor and a central fire.

15/02/2022
Unst

I continued my way up north in Unst in direction of the Shetland Reel Distillery for my gin tasting. On the way, I saw some of Unsts sights, it was easier here to find them than in Yell.

Bobby´s Bus shelter

Probably the most famous bus shelter worldwide – Bobby´s Bus Shelter and this lovely honesty box is situated near Baltasound. Each year the shelter gets decorated with a new theme, but nobody knows who are the masterminds behind the decoration.

And you definitely want to have a look into that honesty box, such amazing produce!

Saxa Vord

It was time for my gin tasting at the most northerly distillery in the UK – Shetland Reel Gin. It turned out that I was the only guest and got to try all the different gins. It was founded to distil whisky and as we all know whisky takes a long time, so to earn some money gin seemed to be an option. Using only local botanicals Shetland Reel gin soon earned awards and lots of fans. They still don´t produce whisky but a range of different gins with special editions for the Up Helly AA festival, a rocket countdown or special book editions. I also got the tip to look out for the special editions in the local shops as they often stock them. (A few days later I was lucky enough to score a Filska edition, which was very tasty.)

Even so, I kept myself back with tasting the different gin a bit of a walk was necessary and I wanted to explore Saxa Vord anyway,

Unst played an important role in the defence of the UK during World War 2. By 1945 there were two radar stations in Unst, one at Saxa Vord and another one in Skaw. The houses and buildings we see today used to house the employees until its closing in 2005.

Today there is a new radar station based in Saxa Vord, but nobody is based there all the time. The houses and buildings became holiday resorts. My lovely guide at the distillery told me, that usually lots of guests from Norway come with cruises and stay in Unst. This year I was the first non-UK-resident tourist coming to Shetland Reel.

Skaw Beach

Skaw is the most northerly settlement in the UK, including the most northern house. I went to the most northerly beach, which was stunning. And it is also the most northerly point of the British Cycle Route.

It is a narrow and sometimes steep road to get there but it is worth it!

10/02/2022